Santa Monica’s New Riva Restaurant Brings The Italian Coastline To The Edge Of The Pacific

Nov. 14, 2008 - PRLog -- (SANTA MONICA, CA; Sept 2008) Honored chef Jason Travi, Thierry Perez and their partners in Culver City’s acclaimed Fraîche have opened RIVA just blocks from the Pacific Ocean. Riva means “shoreline” in Italian and the new restaurant—destined to capture as much buzz as the ultra-popular Fraîche—specializes in rustic, boldly flavored dishes from the Italian coast.

Jason Travi, one of L.A.’s most acclaimed young chefs, collaborates with premier sommelier and maître d’ Thierry Perez, movie producer/restaurateur Keith Fox and prominent attorney Amir Ohebsion in this project—the same team that propelled Culver City’s Fraîche to the ranks of L.A.’s hottest dining destinations. Travi, who has cooked at Spago, Granita, Opaline and La Terza, hails from the Massachusetts coast and derives much of his creative inspiration from the sea. Perez, one of America’s top sommeliers, was born in France’s Basque country but grew up on the Côte d’Azur and spent the formative years of his career in Nice. Fox and Ohebsion are long-time Angeleno residents whose lives are heavily influenced by the Pacific Coast, while the Japanese heritage of Miho Travi, Jason’s wife and critically acclaimed pastry chef, also reinforces a love of the sea. At RIVA, the diverse waters of Italy—from the scenic Amalfi Coast to Sicily to the Adriatic Sea—provide the inspiration for an approachable, rustic cuisine.

RIVA is located three blocks from the Pacific Ocean in downtown Santa Monica, an area dominated by some of Southern California’s premier dining rooms, yet enhanced by a casual lifestyle embodied by the city’s famous beach and pier. Dean Larkin Design, the firm responsible for the chic Farmer’s Daughter Hotel in L.A., has infused contemporary accents into a historic 1920s building designed by legendary architect Paul R. Williams, whose ornate plaster façade has not been altered. “My philosophy is to honor the original architecture,” explains Larkin, who brings a rustic sense of elegance to the proud landmark. Fox sums up the look he and his partners envisioned for RIVA by explaining, “We wanted it to feel like you were in someone’s home in Italy.”

Upon stepping into RIVA, guests are greeted by fragrances from boxes of herbs and fruits mounted onto walls on either side of the foyer, instantly creating an aromatic Mediterranean experience. Straight ahead sits a dramatic architectural element rising from the floor, pierced by a spectacular contemporary chandelier hanging from a soaring 15-foot ceiling. To the right is a lounge area dominated by a stunning faux alabaster bar seductively illuminated from within, positioned beneath a sleek curvilinear canopy of Venetian plaster embellished with an abstract wrought iron design. Next to the bar is a glass-ensconced liquor closet stocked with rare Italian grappe and liqueurs. Across the rustic oak planked floor is a dining area filled with rich wood tables paired with chocolate leather banquettes against the building’s richly textured original concrete wall, revealed only after peeling off layers of undistinguished modern materials. Chef Travi cooks in an open kitchen framed by rustic French limestone, with a chef’s counter offering the best views of the proceedings while enjoying superb impromptu tasting menus. In the rear of the restaurant lies an intimate VIP room with a formidable wall of wine crafted from dark oak. Seating approximately 50 guests, the venue is ideal for entertainment industry events, corporate meetings or family celebrations.  

Throughout his career, Travi has been passionate about bringing out vibrant flavors through the use of impeccable, fresh ingredients. After training in Italy and being mentored by acclaimed L.A. chef Gino Angelini, he understands one reason the food in rural and coastal Italy tastes so good is the use of unadulterated artisanal ingredients—many of which leave the farm just hours before cooking. Much of the produce that makes it into RIVA’s kitchen is organic, obtained at the world-famous Santa Monica Farmers Market a few blocks from the restaurant, where Travi and many of L.A.’s finest chefs regularly shop. Seafood, however, is an equally important part of the experience at RIVA.

Crudo means “raw” in Italian and is often interpreted through fish. The popularity of sushi has already prepared L.A. diners for the magic of this kind of light, healthy eating. The chef’s alluring selection of crudo dishes includes Fluke with Chives and Prosecco Sabayon; Geoduck Clams with Orange, Watercress and Mint; Sardine with Salsa Verde and Pickled Onion; Sepia with Walnuts and Micro Celery; and Seabass with Lemon Zest, Sea Salt and Sicilian Olive Oil.  

Among appetizers are Crispy Tripe with Spicy Chickpeas and Shaved Cipollini; Salt Cod Fritters with Saffron Aïoli and Herb Salad; California Bufala Mozzarella with Heirloom Tomato, Mushroom & Walnut Soup; and Pastina in Brodo with Chanterelles and Chicken. Neapolitan-style Pizzas from the kitchen’s wood-burning oven include a classic Margherita (Tomato, Basil, Bufala Mozzarella, Spinach, Ricotta and Parmesan); an elegant pie topped with Potato, Chives, Crème Fraîche and American Caviar; and a Nizza , the favorite  creation adorned with Black Olives, Anchovy, Onion, Tomato and Thyme.

RIVA’s entrées range from Monkfish Saltimbocca with Prosciutto, Potato Purée and Spinach; to Coulotte Steak with Fingerling Potatoes and Red Wine Sabayon; to Whole Squab with Bread Stuffing, Mushrooms and Liver Sauce. Shellfish Fra Diavolo consists of Lobster, Mussels, Clams and Shrimp in a Spicy Tomato Broth, and Costata di Bue Per Due (Prime Rib for Two) arrives with Tuscan Black Cabbage and Bagna Cauda.

Miho Travi, a Spago veteran who has received rave reviews for her nuanced, sophisticated renditions of classic Mediterranean finales at Fraîche, has designed a menu at RIVA that showcases indulgent Italian desserts with modern accents.

RIVA’s wine list has been assembled by Thierry Perez, whose list at Fraîche was honored as one of the best in 2008 by Food & Wine magazine. A passionate Frenchman, Perez demonstrates his ample versatility by providing an exclusively Italian wine list with more than 200 selections, priced between $25 and $1,000. There is an emphasis on lesser known boutique wineries and approachable prices, with an extensive section dedicated to intriguing wines priced under $50. “I wanted the wine list to be fun, exciting and affordable, and to capture the essence of tasting local wines while driving through Italy’s diverse viticultural regions,” explains Perez, adding, “It’s a perfect complement to Jason’s menu.” Despite an emphasis on value, serious oenophiles who want to spend hundreds of dollars on a celebrated Biondi Santi Brunello Riserva will have the opportunity to do so. Every section on the engaging list is headed with inspirational quotes from the likes of Shakespeare, Galileo, or Robert Louis Stevenson, and wines are organized by tasting characteristics (e.g. full body, complex, light & elegant) to assist customers.

About 30 wines are offered by the glass, and thanks to the restaurant’s vintage Cruvinet machine, opened bottles are preserved at optimal condition after opening. Perez is also a renowned fromanger, stocking a cheese cart with the finest Italian imports—a perfect way to either finish off a bottle of Barolo or to begin a bottle of Vin Santo. Able mixologists man the bar, creating cocktails incorporating the finest spirits and fresh fruits, prompting chef Travi to remind us, “Whatever I find at the farmers market, you’ll probably see in a cocktail.”

RIVA is located at 312 Wilshire Bl in Santa Monica, just a short walk from the beach. It is open for lunch and dinner daily, from 11:30 a.m. to midnight Sunday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 1:00 a.m. Friday and Saturday.  Reservations, which are strongly recommended, can be made by calling 310.451.RIVA. Private parties of all sizes are graciously accommodated. Valet parking is provided.

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Honored chef Jason Travi, Thierry Perez and their partners in Culver City’s acclaimed Fraîche have opened RIVA just blocks from the Pacific Ocean. Riva means “shoreline” in Italian and the new restaurant—destined to capture as much buzz as the ultra-popular Fraîche—specializes in rustic, boldly flavored dishes from the Italian coast.